Interior Framing

Gluing on the deck knees with thickened epoxy fillets and 4″ 12oz tape. I used some temporary braces to make sure they were parallel to each other.

Next I notched out the knees to take the port deck carlin. These are glued in with thickened epoxy fillets all around the joint. It took some creative clamping to spring it into place.

Getting ready to install the starboard side deck carlin.

Clamping the starboard carlin on. It wanted to spring down at the bow, so I clamped a block wrapped in packing tape on top to hold it in position.

Most of the interior framing is done. This is the point where I thought it really started to look and feel like a boat.

After the centerboard case was installed I could add the main thwart framing. I screwed these together with stainless screws and plenty of thickened epoxy. They haven’t been installed yet, but there will be some blocks at the bow side of the thwart to spread the load over the entire width of the top side panel. Otherwise the thwart would create a hard spot in the panel that would eventually break the plywood. This way, the load gets spread out into the gunnel and chine.

The mast partner was made from a lamination of two pieces of 3/4″ yellow pine. I put a layer of 6oz fiberglass in between but I’m not sure how much that helps the strength, if any. The cloth is along the neutral axis, so it won’t help with bending strength, but it should help keep the fibers of the wood from splitting.

To glue it in place, I first clamped a batten along the underside to locate it at the right height. Then I carefully measured so the center of the notch was on the centerline of the boat. Then I dry fit four big stainless screws through the bulkhead and into the mast partner, but avoided the glue line. Then I glued it in place with thickened epoxy and healthy sized fillets. The 3/4″ holes will have some 3/4″ x 6″ long bronze rods epoxied in place to use as belaying pins.

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